How to use this Blog

Welcome to the supplimental blog for the CD gift that was sent to you for Thomas & Dulce Passanisi. This post is being made by Bel Stella (a.k.a. Leilani Carrara) to inform you of a few items you will want to take note of.

Using the Blog
The easiest way to use this blog is to go through day by day, clicking on the appropriate day to the right, which coincides with your CD photo album. - - - - - - - >

All of the history was purposely left on this blog so that you could learn more about each of the places that Tom and Dulce visited while on their trip, and make it easier to view the CD album.

Picking up Photos of your Own
Tom and Dulce took a lot of pictures, many of which were sized down and placed into your CD photo album. We've taken the extra step to upload the more scenic and unique photos for you to purchase using Snapfish by HP. You can either use the link here to go to this album, or click on the link to the right, which can be found on any blog sub-page as you make your way through. We can also send a link to the album directly to your email address so you can add it to your collection, in the event you are already a Snapfish member. Either make a comment on this blog posting, or email us at belstella@gmail.com so we can send a link your way.

Have a Question or Special Request?
Feel free to contact us so we can take care of you. We've purposely made links directly from your CD album menu, however you can contact us at the same email mentioned in the paragraph above, or from our website which is located in the right column of any sub-page of this blog.

Most importantly, we hope you enjoy this full presentation of their trip, and feel free to leave comments on any of the blog posts for Tom & Dulce to see!

Day 14 - On to Augusta!

Augusta, Sicily * June 28, 2006

Augusta is an important Italian commercial port concerned primarily with oil refineries and the production of “green” (lead-free) petrol. This industrial conglomeration has incurred considerable damage be it as a result of the 1693 earthquake, the Allied bombing of 1943, or, indeed following major seismic tremors as recently as 1990.

The town was founded by Frederick II on account of its strategic position with regard to defending the Bay of Augusta: hence the overpowering defensive quality of the Swabian castle, despite its neglected state of repair. The city became the most important Siracusan military outpost during the Second World War.

Augusta claims as impressing cultural and tourist attractions as historical ones. The entrance to the citadel is by the Spanish Gate, flanked by two imposing bastions. The main axis of the old town is Corso Principe Umberto, the commercial thoroughfare which runs north to south.

The tour throughout Augusta can begin in the Swabian Castle, an imposing square building unfortunately reduced to a poor condition hence not accessible. It probably comprised a square tower at each of its four corners and other two polygonal towers in the remaining sides, one of these being only visible. The castle served longtime as a prison. The Forte Avalos, the Forte Garcia and the Forte Vittoria, all built during the 16th century, are also worth-seeing.

The religious buildings include the Baroque Chiesa delle Anime Sante and the 1600’s Chiesa Madre dedicated to Our lady of the Annunciation.

Day 13 - Siracuse, Syracuse, Siracusa!!

Siracusa, Sicily * June 27, 2006

We were on our way to the second leg of our trip in Sicily, and started our tour here in Siracuse (a.k.a. Syracuse, a.k.a. Siracusa).

The area of what is today Syracuse today has been inhabited since very ancient times, as shown by the findings in the villages of Stentinello, Ognina, Plemmirio, Matrensa, Cozzo Pantano and Thapsos, which already had relationship with Mycenaean Greece.

Syracuse was founded in 734 or 733 BC by Greek settlers from Corinth, led by the oecist (colonizer) Archias, who called it Sirako, referring to a nearby swamp. The nucleus of the ancient city was the small island of Ortygia. The settlers found the land to be fertile and the native tribes to be reasonably well-disposed to their presence. The city grew and prospered, and for some time stood as the most powerful Greek city anywhere in the Mediterranean. Colonies were founded at Akrai (664 BC), Kasmenai (643 BC) and Kamarina (598 BC). The descendants of the first colonist, called Gamoroi, held the power until they were expelled by the Killichiroi, the lower class of the city. The former, however, returned to power in 485 BC, thanks to the help of Gelo, ruler of Gela. Gelo himself became the despot of the city, and moved numerous inhabitants of Gela, Kamarina and Megera to Syracuse, building the new quarters of Tyche and Neapolis outside the walls. His program of new constructions included also a new theater, designed by Damocopos, which gave the city a flourishing cultural life: this in turn attracted personalities as Aeschylus, Ario of Metimma, Eumelos of Corinth and Sappho, who had been exiled here from Mytilene. The enlarged power of Syracuse made unavoidable the clash against the Carthaginians, who ruled over the Western part of Sicily. In the Battle of Himera, Gelo, who had allied with Theron of Agrigento, decisively defeated the African force led by Hamilcar. A temple, entitled to Athena (on the site of the today's Cathedral), was erected in the city to commemorate the event.

Gelo was succedeed by his brother Hiero, who fought against the Etruscans at Cumae in 474 BC. His rule was eulogized by poets like Simonides of Ceos, Bacchylides and Pindar, who visited his court. A democratic regime was introduced by Thrasybulos (467 BC). The city continued to expand in Sicily, fighting against the rebellious Siculi, and on the Tyrrhenian Sea, making expeditions up to Corsica and Elba. In the late 5th century BC, Syracuse found itself at war with Athens, which sought more resources to fight the Peloponnesian War. The Syracusans enlisted the aid of a general from Sparta, Athens' foe in the war, to defeat the Athenians, destroy their ships, and leave them to starve on the island (see Sicilian Expedition). In 401 BC, Syracuse contributed a force of 3,000 hoplites and a general to Cyrus the Younger's Army of the Ten Thousand.

Not long after, in the early 4th century BC, the tyrant Dionysius the Elder was again at war against Carthage and, although losing Gela and Camarina, kept that power from capturing the whole of Sicily. After the end of the conflict Dionysius built a massive fortress on the Otrigia island of the city, as well as another 22 km-long walls line that encircled the whole of Syracuse. After another period of expansion, which saw the destruction of Naxos, Catania and Lentini, the city entered again in war against Carthage (397 BC). After various changes of fortune, the Africans managed to besiege Syracuse itself, but were eventually pushed back by a pestilence. A treaty in 392 BC allowed Syracuse to enlarge further its possessions, founding the cities of Adrano, Ancona, Adria, Tindari and Tauromenos, and conquering Reggio Calabria on the continent. Apart his battle deeds, Dionysius was famous as a patron of art, and Plato himself visited several times Syracuse.

His successor was Dionysius the Younger, who was however expelled by Dion in 356 BC. However, the latter's despotic rule led in turn to his expulsion, and Dionysius reclaimed his throne in 347 BC. A democratic government was installed by Timoleon in 345 BC. The long series of inner struggles had weakened Syracuse's power in the island, and Timoleon tried to remedy this situation, defeating the Carthaginians in 339 BC near the Krimisos river. The struggle among the city's parties, however, restarted after his death and ended with the rise of another tyrant, Agathocles, who seized the power with a coup in 317 BC. He resumed the war against Carthage, with alternate fortunes. He however scored a moral success, bringing the war to the Carthaginians' native African soil, inflicting heavy losses to the enemy. The war, however, ended with another treaty of peace which did not prevent the Carthaginians interfering in the politics of Syracuse after the death of the tyrant Agathocles (289 BC). The citizens therefore called Pyrrhus of Epirus for help. After a brief period under the rule of Epirus, Hiero II seized power in 275 BC.

Hiero inaugurated a period of fifty years of peace and prosperity, in which Syracause became one of the most renowned capitals of Antiquity. He issued the so-called Lex Hieronica, which was later adopted by the Romans for their administration of Sicily; he also had the theater enlarged and a new immense altar, the "Hiero's Ara", built. Under his rule the most famous Syracusan lived, the natural philosopher Archimedes. Among his many inventions were various military engines including the claw of Archimedes, later used to resist a Roman siege. Literature figures included Theocritus and others.

Hiero's successor, the young Hieronymus (ruled from 215 BC), broke the peace with the Romans, who, led by consul Marcus Claudius Marcellus, besieged the city in 214 BC. The city held out for three years, but fell in 212 BC. It is believed to have fallen due to a peace party opening a small door in the wall to negotiate a peace, but the Romans charged through the door and took the city, killing Archimedes in the process.

Though declining slowly by the years, Syracuse maintained the status of capital of the Roman government of Sicily and seat of the praetor. It remained an important port for the trades between the Eastern and the Western parts of the Empire. Christianity spread in the city through the efforts of Paul of Tarsus and Saint Marziano, the first bishop of the city, who made it one of the main centres of proselytism in the West. In the age the persecutions massive catacombs were carved, whose size is second only to Rome's ones.

After a period of Vandal rule, Syracuse and the island was recovered by Belisarius for the Byzantine Empire (31 December 535). From 663 to 668 Syracuse was the seat of Emperor Constans II, as well as metropolis of the whole Sicilian Church.

Another siege in 878, which ended with the fierce sack of the city, inaugurated two centuries of Muslim rule. Syracuse lost its capital status in favour of Palermo. The Cathedral was turned into a mosque and the quarter on the Ortygia island was gradually rebuilt along Islamic styles. The city, anyway, maintained important trade relationships, and housed a relatively flourishing cultural and artistical life: several Arab poets, including Ibn Hamdis, the most important Sicilan poet of the 12th century, lived here.

In 1038, the Byzantine general George Maniaces reconquered the city, sending the relics of St. Lucy to Constantinople. The eponymous castle on the cape of Ortygia bears his name, although it was built under the Hohenstaufen rule. The Normans entered Syracuse, one of the last Saracen strongpoints, in 1085, after a summer-long siege by Roger I of Sicily and his son Jordan of Hauteville, who was given the city as count. New quarters were built, and the cathedral was restored, as well as other churches.

In 1194 Henry VI of Swabia occupied Syracuse. After a short period of Genoese rule (1205-1220), which favoured a rise of trades, Syracuse was conquered back by emperor Frederick II. He began the construction of the Castello Maniace, the Bishops' Palace and the Bellomo Palace. Frederick's death brought a period of unrest and feudal anarchy. In the struggle between the Anjou and Aragonese monarchies, Syracuse sided with the Aragonese and defeated the Anjou in 1298, receiving from the Spanish sovereigns great privileges in reward. The preeminence of baronal families is also showed by the construction of the palaces of Abela, Chiaramonte, Nava, Montalto.

The city in the following centuries was struck by two ruinous earthquakes in 1542 and 1693, and, in 1729, by a plague. The 17th century destruction changed forever the appearance of Syracuse, as well as the entire Val di Noto, whose cities were rebuilt along the typical lines of Sicilian Baroque, considered one of the most typical expressions of art of Southern Italy. The spread of cholera in 1837 led to a revolt against the Bourbon government. The punishment was the move of the province capital seat to Noto, but the unrest had not been totally choked, as the Siracusani took part to the 1848 revolution.

After the Unification of Italy of 1865, Syracuse regained its status of provincial capital. In 1870 the walls were demolished and a bridge connecting the mainland to Ortygia island was built. In the following year a railway link was constructed.

Heavy destruction was caused by the Allied and the German bombings in 1943. After the end of World War II the northern quarters of Syracuse experienced a heavy, often chaotic, expansion, favored by the quick process of industrialization.

Syracuse today has about 125,000 inhabitants and numerous attractions for the visitor interested in historical sites (such as the Ear of Dionysius). A process of recovering and restoring the historical centre has been ongoing since the 1990s. Nearby places of note include Catania, Noto, Modica and Ragusa.

*All information provided by Wikipedia.org

Day 12 - Return to Naples and Farewell

Naples, Italy * Monday, June 26, 2006

From the Navigator:
Since the transit of Messina Strait yesterday evening, the Golden Princess has maintained northerly courses off the west coast of Italy. Just before arriving in Naples, the vessel will pass Sorrento to starboard and Capri Island to Port. The vessel will then approach the breakwater and make her entrance into the harbour. Once in the harbour, the vessel will swing around and come astern, alongside her berth. Naples lies along the Tyrrhenian Sea Coast and is Italy's third largest city. it is an important centre of commerce and tourism. The Port of Naples handles such goods as bulk oil, food stuffs, cars, textiles, fruit, and vegetables. The port also has a naval dockyard and an important shipbuilding industry. Golden Princess will depart from Naples at 1800 this evening, exit the harbour and set courses toward Civitavecchia.

Where Art Steems Vibrant with Life and a Culture Lies Frozen in Time

The sunny Bay of Naples is one of Italy's most beautiful sights, and the gateway to the South. The isles of Capri and Ischia beckon offshore, as the plumed heights of Mount Vesuvius dominate the skyline.

Naples was founded by Greeks from nearby Cumae, who saw the obvious value of a protected anchorage with almost unlimited capacity. They called it "New City" or Neapolis.

The same New City was conquered by the Romans in the 4th-century B.C., but the Greek language and customs remained strong for the next 800 years.

The ancient Romans never considered Naples and the surrounding region to be very important, but they were still attracted by such obvious natural beauty. The fertile lands and the sunny, mild climate made it ideal for farming. Together with Sicily, the entire Campanian region was a principal breadbasket of the Roman Empire.

Many villas and estates were constructed here for wealthy landowners and prosperous merchants. The rich and famous of the Empire nearly always had houses here, in addition to those in Rome and elsewhere.

During the middle ages, Naples, Amalfi, Sorrento, and several other local towns grew wealthy trading with the eastern Mediterranean. In 892 A.D., Sorrento fought a naval battle against Amalfi over control of trade.

Amalfi later became an important maritime republic, like Venice and Genoa, and played an important role in transporting Crusaders to the Holy Land. Some of the largest and most powerful galleys of that day were built along these shores.

Naples and Sicily were united in a large southern kingdom, which was ruled by a confusing series of German, French and Spanish monarchs. Among the most interesting was Charles I of Anjou, brother of St. Louis of France, who was named king by the Pope in 1268.

His grandson, "Robert the Wise" attracted poets, painters and scholars to Naples, and established one of the most brilliant courts of the medieval period. A large population and flourishing trade helped to assure Neapolitan domination of the central Mediterranean.

In 1504, the great solder Gonzalo de Cordoba defeated the French and made Naples part of the growing Spanish Empire of Ferdinand and Isabella. For the next two centuries, southern Italy would be tied to the exciting history of Spain, although taxes were more oppressive than ever.

A Neapolitan school of painting developed, with strong influence from Spanish and other Italian artists, like Caravaggio. magnificent palaces were built during the baroque and rococo periods, especially along the Via Toledo.

It was not until the 19th-century that Naples lost its reputation as a sophisticated capital city. The last kings were ruthless tyrants, who used repression to maintain their misrule. Ferdinand II was nicknamed "Bomba" because of his cruel bombardment of Messina during the revolution of 1848. Garibaldi finally conquered the entire southern realm in 1860, and united to the new Kingdom of Italy.

Naples today is a lively and animated city, which preserves the reminders of its past in a fan-shaped halo over the beautiful bay. Lavish mansions and churches nestle among poor districts. The Royal Palace of Capodimonte offers a stunning panorama of the entire city. The National Museum displays unique treasures taken from Pompeii and other ancient sites.

Just offshore is Capri, one of the world's most beloved islands. The name means "Goat Island," and Capri is well suited for these sure-footed animals.

Unlike nearby Ischia, which is volcanic, Capri is a mass of limestone which was once a part of the mainland. The Greeks settled there in ancient times, then the Romans.

The Emperor Augustus was so enchanted with Capri that he built a villa for himself, complete with roads and aqueducts. His successor Tiberius added several other villas, then moved here permanently for the last 10 years of his life. He saw nowhere else in the world which could compete with such beauty!

Beyond any doubt, a visit to Pompeii will teach you more about the ancient Romans than most other activities. Pompeii and the neighboring town of Herculaneum were destroyed and buried by a volcanic eruption in 79 A.D. This catastrophe killed 2,000 people, but it also preserved a unique look at their way of life. Vesuvius managed to freeze an entire society at one instant of time, so that we are able to study the lives and customs of 2,000 years ago.

As the playground of the first century's superstars, Pompeii offers an intimate look at the lives of people so affluent and powerful that the world was at their feet! Even today, we gasp at their lavish and indulgent lives.

A characteristic Pompeiian house would be rather dull from the outside, with nothing but bare walls visible, and very few windows.

Once through the main entrance, however, you would see a rectangular entry court called an atrium, open to the sky, and lavishly decorated with mosaics, marbles, statues and paintings. There was frequently a basin in the center to catch rain water. Around the court, there were usually small sleeping cubicles for members of the family. They were quite simple, since most daytime activities took place in other rooms.

A large study or reception room for the head of the household was the central hub, where books and money were kept. Dining rooms and larger salons for family activities completed the rectangle.

More elaborate houses could have several other hollow courtyards added, with fish ponds or warm baths common for wealthy families.

A colonnade or elaborate portico was almost taken for granted as a necessary decoration. Even ordinary meals were elaborate affairs with several courses. Guests reclined on large couches covered with pillows, while a great variety of food was served.

Plates and cups could be made of earthenware, metal or glass, and were richly decorated. The dining room was the most highly decorated room of the house.

Shops and stores along the Via dell'Abbondanza present a fascinating glimpse of Pompeii's commercial life. Most shops are open to the street, sometimes with serving windows for convenience.

Some shops are equipped with counters holding bins or storage jars built right into them. Business owners often lived in rooms behind the store, or on an upper floor.

Many roads in Pompeii are lined with sidewalks a foot ore more above the street level. Stepping stones were place to allow pedestrians to cross in wet weather, but spaces were still left to allow wheels and horses to get by easily.

After the discovery and excavation of Pompeii (which began in 1748) the findings took Europe by storm. The so-called Pompeiian style of frescoes on a red or black background became an overnight sensation. Royal palaces and country mansions adopted ancient styles of decoration and furnishings, with the subsequent enrichment of the entire civilization. There is so much to learn in Pompeii, and the city itself is a great teacher.

A side note: As part of our tour, we had a near-celebrity experience...check it out! It's Sophia Loren's home!













And now, our final tidbits session for the cruise:

• Food specialties - The Campania region's cuisine is mostly simple fare, using fresh local ingredients, and popular dishes are Spaghetti alle vongole (made with a clam sauce, either white or red), Pizza alla marinara, Insalata Caprese (slices of fresh mozzarella and ripe red tomatoes, garlic and oregano), and Melanzane alla parmigiana (fresh eggplant fried and layered with tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese).
• Drink specialties - The region produces a number of excellent wines, among them: Gragnano, Falerno, Lacrima Cristi, and Greco di Tufo (all whites), and Aglianico, Taurasi, and Falerno (all reds).
• Some useful words: Si (Yes), No (No), Si grazie (Yes, please), Grazie (Thank you), Scusi (Excuse me, sorry), Buon giorno (Good morning), and Arrivederci (Goodbye)

And, as we say farewell to our cruise, we also say goodbye to our Martini of the Day: Metropolitan (Absolut Kurant, Triple Sec, Cranberry juice and Lime juice).

Day 11 - At Sea back to Italy

At Sea * Sunday, June 25, 2006

From the Navigator:
Throughout today we will set a westerly course across the southern Ionian Sea towards landfall off the southern coast of Italy this evening. We will then alter our course to the north as we approach the Messina Straits which runs between Italy and Sicily. For this narrow stretch of water we will have to embark a pilot who will stay on board for 30 minutes until the transit is over. Once clear we will set a north westerly course passing 8.5 miles east of Stromboli before continuing onto Naples.

Since today was spent at sea, the staff aboard the ship made sure there was plenty to do, including a Catholic mass, ping pong challenge, Outburst, a golf clinic, line dancing class, hole-in-one putting, culinary demonstration, high numbers bingo, morning team trivia, daytime melodies, ice carving demonstration, Princess pop star finalists rehearsal, arts & crafts, an art auction, bridge, a movie (Pride and Prejudice), adult mixed doubles shuffleboard, a magical encounter with Gaetano, a navigational chart and art auction, paddle tennis, and much more.

They even had a Martini demonstration. Speaking of which, it's that time again! Martini of the Day was London Lemonade (Beefeater Gin, Contreau and Sweet & Sour)

Day 10 - Welcome to Santorini!

Santorini, Greece * Saturday, June 24, 2006

From the Navigator:
In the early hours of the morning, Golden Princess will be passing south of Anafi Island heading west. At about 18 miles southeast of Santorini (Thira), we will alter our course to the northwest steaming along the west coastline of Santorini. Just after sunrise we will enter the bay of Thira via the north entrance making our way towards the anchorage. The island of Santorini if formed from an extinct volcano which exploded leaving the remains we see today. The anchorage is on a pinnacle on the crater floor, with the bottom shelving steeply to depths of over 300 meters. Once the vessel has been anchored, tender operations will commence shortly afterwards to the village of Thira. In the afternoon, we will weigh anchor and set courses out of the bay towards Naples. We will transit the southern Aegean during the evening making westerly courses towards the Ionian Sea.

A Brief Overview of Santorini

Did the catastrophic volcanic eruption that ravaged Santorini circa 1600 B.C. destroy Crete's ancient Minoan civilization and give birth to the myth of Atlantis? in 1967, archaeologists on Santorini unearthed the remains of a Bronze Age city that may have been home to as many as 30,000 people. Whether the Lost Continent of Atlantis is rooted in myth or reality, an undisputed fact remains. The eruption created a caldera and one of the most dramatic land and seascapes in the entire Mediterranean.

On Santorini, white washed buildings cling to vertiginous cliffs that plunge to a turquoise sea. Part of the Cyclades Archipelago, the three island group of Santorini, Thirasia and uninhabited Aspronisi present the traveler with unforgettable vistas.

And now, your Martini of the Day: Lemon Tini (Absolut Citron with Sweet & Sour)

Day 9 - Welcome to Rhodes!

Rhodes, Greece * Friday, June 23, 2006

From the Navigator:
After departing Kusadasi, the Golden Princess set a westerly course into Kusadasi Gulf until she was abeam on the westerly tip of "Nisos Ikaria". Golden Princess turned then into the Ikarian Sea setting a south easterly course. During the overnight passage we transit 3.5 miles east of Levitha Island, once off the west end of Kandhelioussa Island, we set out course towards the west end of the Rhodes Channel. In the early hours of the morning, Golden princess sailed off the north coast of Rhodes. About 7:00am we embarked the pilot and we proceeded alongside at Angeloi pier. In the afternoon, once we depart, the vessel will exit the breakwaters and retrace our course into the Rhodes Channel once again. During the evening we will set various courses through the Eastern and Central Aegean Islands towards Santorini.

An Overview of Rhodes

Blessed with delightful climate and fertile soil, which produces a variety of the finest fruits, vegetables and red wine, Rhodes is the most important island in the group known as the Dodecanese or South Sporades. It is also the most easterly island of the Aegena Sea.

In Greek mythology, Rhodes was created by the sun god and a sea nymph: symbolic testimony indeed to the favor of both sun and sea in this beautiful place. According to Homer, the first colonists were Dorian Greeks, who founded three settlements: Lindos, Karmiros and Ialyssos. All three towns grew and prospered, extending their trade contacts as far as Italy and Spain.

Once they became involved in the Persian and Peloponesian wars, the settlers saw the need for a fortress. They founded the city of Rhodes at the northern tip of the island, and worked together to build a powerful citadel with a protected harbor.

The strength of the fortifications and the Rodian navy made the island even more important as a commercial and military power. It was put under siege many times, but usually resisted successfully.

In its days of greatest power, Rhodes became famous for impressive sculpture, like the huge bronze Colossus, which stood at the entrance to the harbor. Created to honor the sun god Helios, it was at least 110 feet high and considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

Contrary to popular belief, it did not straddle the harbor mouth, which is 1,300 feet across. It may have stood, however, on a protective barrier at the entrance, or off to one side of it.

Unfortunately, the Colossus only stood for 56 years before an earthquake toppled it in 224 B.C. But the enormous fragments remained half-submerged-and still awe-inspiring-for another nine centuries. When a scrap dealer finally carried the pieces away, he needed 900 camels!

The people of Rhodes cooperated with Alexander the Great, and later with the Roman empire, but the period of their greatest commercial success was already past. Rhodes passed successively from Byzantine control to the Saracens to Italian merchants, never regaining its former glory.

But the most glorious episode in Rodian history began in 1309, when the Knights of St. John took control. The Knights were founded during the Crusades as a nursing brotherhood, helping to care for the sick and infirm among the pilgrims to the Holy Land. Their full and proper name was the Knights of the Order of the Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem.

Yet continued fighting in the countryside convinced them that they had to protect travelers as well as heal them. So the Knights evolved into a genuine military order, like the Templars, although they never lost their interest in medicine and healing.

With the fall of Acre in 1291, the Knights and their fellow crusaders were finally expelled from the Holy Land. Although the Knights were temporary "orphans," they were highly motivated fighting men from the leading families of Europe. The Pope suggested that they use Rhodes as a base from which to harass Turkish communications, and pave the way for the next campaign.

No further Crusade took place, but the Knights rebuilt the town and the fortifications of Rhodes with furious zeal. Most of the imposing military architecture you see today dates from the 14th century. The Knights' rule on the island was mild and just, and both the native Greeks and the Italian merchants prospered with an increase of commerce. The Knights built galleys, learned naval tactics, and quickly became a serious danger to Moslem shipping in the Aegean for the next two centuries.

After Constantinople was captures in 1453, the Turks felt strong enough to seize Rhodes. Sultan Mehmet II attempted an assault in 1480, but was repulsed with severe losses. A later siege by Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent focused the full and awesome power of the Ottoman Empire on this single effort. Suleyman landed in June of 1522, with 100,000 well-trained troops, an excellent engineer corps and powerful siege artillery.

Constant reinforcements were needed to replace casualties, bringing the total number of Turkish soldiers to 200,000; as many as 90,000 of them would die. To oppose them, there were only 700 Knights, with 6,000 local helpers, and no hope of reinforcement. But they knew every inch of their island, and they defended what was by then the most fortified place on earth.

The siege was conducted with great skill and energy on both sides. Repeated Turkish assaults were repulsed with shocking slaughter. By Christmas, only 180 Knights and 1,500 auxiliaries were still left alive, and most of these were wounded.

Suleyman proposed a truce, since he dreaded the thought of more street fighting. The Knights were allowed to evacuate the island peacefully, with the respect of their besiegers. The fighting was finally over, and Rhodes became Turkish property.

The Knights of St. John fell back to Malta, where they rebuilt their forces. They continued to sail expeditions against the Turkish navy. When Suleyman attempted to capture Malta 40 years later, he suffered a major defeat, and the "Knights of Malta" continued to hold their new island until Napoleon's time.

Turkish rule on Rhodes was comparatively lenient, allowing much freedom to the local Greeks and Italians. There was a general decline in commercial development, and not much building took place over the next four centuries.

The Italian navy seized Rhodes and the Dodecanese in 1912, following the Italo-Turkish War. Mussonlini's architects restored many of the medieval buildings and fortresses in the 1930s. There was some air and naval action near Rhodes during World War II, but little damage was done. The islands were turned over to Greece in 1948.

As it appears today, Rhodes Town retains few relics of its glorious ancient past. Most of the Old Town is medieval, in the image of the Knights of St. John. Only on Monte Smith, west of town, do you find remnants of the ancient Acropolis. The ruins of a stadium and an Odeon--a small theater--date from the 2nd century B.C. you will also find three columns from the old Temple of Apollo.

The mountain is named for British Admiral Sidney Smith, who lived here during the Napoleonic Wars. The entrance to the old harbor of Mandraki is marked today by a buck and a doe in bronze, with no Colossus in sight.

But don't neglect the real treat for a visitor to Rhodes: a walk through the Old Town will transport you back five centuries. Just inside the Amboise Gate is the Palace of the Grand Masters, rich with memory of the Knights. Nearby is St. John's Lodge, and the area once occupied by St. John's Chapel, their principal place of worship.

From there, the arrow-straight Street of the Knights leads to St. Mary's church, at the waterfront. Along that thoroughfare are the arsenal and the impressive hospital, in line with the initial mission of the order.

Also near the Street of the Knights you will find a chain of inns, or residences, where the Knights lived in communities based on language. The inns are some of the richest and most impressive buildings in the Old Town. There were eight of these languages: France, Auvergne, Provence, Aragon, Castille, Italy, England, and Germany.

Once you have admired these inns, you will want to walk around the old ramparts. Each wall section-called a boulevard-was garrisoned by a different language. The names of each one line up neatly on the street signs if you know what to look for. Rhodes and Malta are the only places in the world where cities are built in this manner.

If you can tear yourself away from the Old City, there are more surprises in the ancient towns of Rhodes. Beautiful Lindos may already seem familiar if you saw the movie, "The Guns of Navarone." And as early as the 7th century B.C., colonists from here founded Naples, in southern Italy, and Gela in Sicily.

Although the impressive fortress is the work of the Knights, the ancient Acropolis centers on the temple of Athena Lindia, built in the Doric style. The awesome site of Lindos explains why life on Rhodes began here.

Mount Philerimos hosts Ialyssos, the third of the ancient trio of towns. Everyone was here: Phonecians, Dorians, Byzantines, Genoese, Knights of St. John. During the Great Siege, even Suleyman place his headquarters here.

Martini anyone? How about a Tango Tini? (Stolichnaya Vodka, Blue Curacao, Melon Liqueur with pineapple juice)