Day 14 - On to Augusta!

Augusta, Sicily * June 28, 2006

Augusta is an important Italian commercial port concerned primarily with oil refineries and the production of “green” (lead-free) petrol. This industrial conglomeration has incurred considerable damage be it as a result of the 1693 earthquake, the Allied bombing of 1943, or, indeed following major seismic tremors as recently as 1990.

The town was founded by Frederick II on account of its strategic position with regard to defending the Bay of Augusta: hence the overpowering defensive quality of the Swabian castle, despite its neglected state of repair. The city became the most important Siracusan military outpost during the Second World War.

Augusta claims as impressing cultural and tourist attractions as historical ones. The entrance to the citadel is by the Spanish Gate, flanked by two imposing bastions. The main axis of the old town is Corso Principe Umberto, the commercial thoroughfare which runs north to south.

The tour throughout Augusta can begin in the Swabian Castle, an imposing square building unfortunately reduced to a poor condition hence not accessible. It probably comprised a square tower at each of its four corners and other two polygonal towers in the remaining sides, one of these being only visible. The castle served longtime as a prison. The Forte Avalos, the Forte Garcia and the Forte Vittoria, all built during the 16th century, are also worth-seeing.

The religious buildings include the Baroque Chiesa delle Anime Sante and the 1600’s Chiesa Madre dedicated to Our lady of the Annunciation.

Day 13 - Siracuse, Syracuse, Siracusa!!

Siracusa, Sicily * June 27, 2006

We were on our way to the second leg of our trip in Sicily, and started our tour here in Siracuse (a.k.a. Syracuse, a.k.a. Siracusa).

The area of what is today Syracuse today has been inhabited since very ancient times, as shown by the findings in the villages of Stentinello, Ognina, Plemmirio, Matrensa, Cozzo Pantano and Thapsos, which already had relationship with Mycenaean Greece.

Syracuse was founded in 734 or 733 BC by Greek settlers from Corinth, led by the oecist (colonizer) Archias, who called it Sirako, referring to a nearby swamp. The nucleus of the ancient city was the small island of Ortygia. The settlers found the land to be fertile and the native tribes to be reasonably well-disposed to their presence. The city grew and prospered, and for some time stood as the most powerful Greek city anywhere in the Mediterranean. Colonies were founded at Akrai (664 BC), Kasmenai (643 BC) and Kamarina (598 BC). The descendants of the first colonist, called Gamoroi, held the power until they were expelled by the Killichiroi, the lower class of the city. The former, however, returned to power in 485 BC, thanks to the help of Gelo, ruler of Gela. Gelo himself became the despot of the city, and moved numerous inhabitants of Gela, Kamarina and Megera to Syracuse, building the new quarters of Tyche and Neapolis outside the walls. His program of new constructions included also a new theater, designed by Damocopos, which gave the city a flourishing cultural life: this in turn attracted personalities as Aeschylus, Ario of Metimma, Eumelos of Corinth and Sappho, who had been exiled here from Mytilene. The enlarged power of Syracuse made unavoidable the clash against the Carthaginians, who ruled over the Western part of Sicily. In the Battle of Himera, Gelo, who had allied with Theron of Agrigento, decisively defeated the African force led by Hamilcar. A temple, entitled to Athena (on the site of the today's Cathedral), was erected in the city to commemorate the event.

Gelo was succedeed by his brother Hiero, who fought against the Etruscans at Cumae in 474 BC. His rule was eulogized by poets like Simonides of Ceos, Bacchylides and Pindar, who visited his court. A democratic regime was introduced by Thrasybulos (467 BC). The city continued to expand in Sicily, fighting against the rebellious Siculi, and on the Tyrrhenian Sea, making expeditions up to Corsica and Elba. In the late 5th century BC, Syracuse found itself at war with Athens, which sought more resources to fight the Peloponnesian War. The Syracusans enlisted the aid of a general from Sparta, Athens' foe in the war, to defeat the Athenians, destroy their ships, and leave them to starve on the island (see Sicilian Expedition). In 401 BC, Syracuse contributed a force of 3,000 hoplites and a general to Cyrus the Younger's Army of the Ten Thousand.

Not long after, in the early 4th century BC, the tyrant Dionysius the Elder was again at war against Carthage and, although losing Gela and Camarina, kept that power from capturing the whole of Sicily. After the end of the conflict Dionysius built a massive fortress on the Otrigia island of the city, as well as another 22 km-long walls line that encircled the whole of Syracuse. After another period of expansion, which saw the destruction of Naxos, Catania and Lentini, the city entered again in war against Carthage (397 BC). After various changes of fortune, the Africans managed to besiege Syracuse itself, but were eventually pushed back by a pestilence. A treaty in 392 BC allowed Syracuse to enlarge further its possessions, founding the cities of Adrano, Ancona, Adria, Tindari and Tauromenos, and conquering Reggio Calabria on the continent. Apart his battle deeds, Dionysius was famous as a patron of art, and Plato himself visited several times Syracuse.

His successor was Dionysius the Younger, who was however expelled by Dion in 356 BC. However, the latter's despotic rule led in turn to his expulsion, and Dionysius reclaimed his throne in 347 BC. A democratic government was installed by Timoleon in 345 BC. The long series of inner struggles had weakened Syracuse's power in the island, and Timoleon tried to remedy this situation, defeating the Carthaginians in 339 BC near the Krimisos river. The struggle among the city's parties, however, restarted after his death and ended with the rise of another tyrant, Agathocles, who seized the power with a coup in 317 BC. He resumed the war against Carthage, with alternate fortunes. He however scored a moral success, bringing the war to the Carthaginians' native African soil, inflicting heavy losses to the enemy. The war, however, ended with another treaty of peace which did not prevent the Carthaginians interfering in the politics of Syracuse after the death of the tyrant Agathocles (289 BC). The citizens therefore called Pyrrhus of Epirus for help. After a brief period under the rule of Epirus, Hiero II seized power in 275 BC.

Hiero inaugurated a period of fifty years of peace and prosperity, in which Syracause became one of the most renowned capitals of Antiquity. He issued the so-called Lex Hieronica, which was later adopted by the Romans for their administration of Sicily; he also had the theater enlarged and a new immense altar, the "Hiero's Ara", built. Under his rule the most famous Syracusan lived, the natural philosopher Archimedes. Among his many inventions were various military engines including the claw of Archimedes, later used to resist a Roman siege. Literature figures included Theocritus and others.

Hiero's successor, the young Hieronymus (ruled from 215 BC), broke the peace with the Romans, who, led by consul Marcus Claudius Marcellus, besieged the city in 214 BC. The city held out for three years, but fell in 212 BC. It is believed to have fallen due to a peace party opening a small door in the wall to negotiate a peace, but the Romans charged through the door and took the city, killing Archimedes in the process.

Though declining slowly by the years, Syracuse maintained the status of capital of the Roman government of Sicily and seat of the praetor. It remained an important port for the trades between the Eastern and the Western parts of the Empire. Christianity spread in the city through the efforts of Paul of Tarsus and Saint Marziano, the first bishop of the city, who made it one of the main centres of proselytism in the West. In the age the persecutions massive catacombs were carved, whose size is second only to Rome's ones.

After a period of Vandal rule, Syracuse and the island was recovered by Belisarius for the Byzantine Empire (31 December 535). From 663 to 668 Syracuse was the seat of Emperor Constans II, as well as metropolis of the whole Sicilian Church.

Another siege in 878, which ended with the fierce sack of the city, inaugurated two centuries of Muslim rule. Syracuse lost its capital status in favour of Palermo. The Cathedral was turned into a mosque and the quarter on the Ortygia island was gradually rebuilt along Islamic styles. The city, anyway, maintained important trade relationships, and housed a relatively flourishing cultural and artistical life: several Arab poets, including Ibn Hamdis, the most important Sicilan poet of the 12th century, lived here.

In 1038, the Byzantine general George Maniaces reconquered the city, sending the relics of St. Lucy to Constantinople. The eponymous castle on the cape of Ortygia bears his name, although it was built under the Hohenstaufen rule. The Normans entered Syracuse, one of the last Saracen strongpoints, in 1085, after a summer-long siege by Roger I of Sicily and his son Jordan of Hauteville, who was given the city as count. New quarters were built, and the cathedral was restored, as well as other churches.

In 1194 Henry VI of Swabia occupied Syracuse. After a short period of Genoese rule (1205-1220), which favoured a rise of trades, Syracuse was conquered back by emperor Frederick II. He began the construction of the Castello Maniace, the Bishops' Palace and the Bellomo Palace. Frederick's death brought a period of unrest and feudal anarchy. In the struggle between the Anjou and Aragonese monarchies, Syracuse sided with the Aragonese and defeated the Anjou in 1298, receiving from the Spanish sovereigns great privileges in reward. The preeminence of baronal families is also showed by the construction of the palaces of Abela, Chiaramonte, Nava, Montalto.

The city in the following centuries was struck by two ruinous earthquakes in 1542 and 1693, and, in 1729, by a plague. The 17th century destruction changed forever the appearance of Syracuse, as well as the entire Val di Noto, whose cities were rebuilt along the typical lines of Sicilian Baroque, considered one of the most typical expressions of art of Southern Italy. The spread of cholera in 1837 led to a revolt against the Bourbon government. The punishment was the move of the province capital seat to Noto, but the unrest had not been totally choked, as the Siracusani took part to the 1848 revolution.

After the Unification of Italy of 1865, Syracuse regained its status of provincial capital. In 1870 the walls were demolished and a bridge connecting the mainland to Ortygia island was built. In the following year a railway link was constructed.

Heavy destruction was caused by the Allied and the German bombings in 1943. After the end of World War II the northern quarters of Syracuse experienced a heavy, often chaotic, expansion, favored by the quick process of industrialization.

Syracuse today has about 125,000 inhabitants and numerous attractions for the visitor interested in historical sites (such as the Ear of Dionysius). A process of recovering and restoring the historical centre has been ongoing since the 1990s. Nearby places of note include Catania, Noto, Modica and Ragusa.

*All information provided by Wikipedia.org

Day 12 - Return to Naples and Farewell

Naples, Italy * Monday, June 26, 2006

From the Navigator:
Since the transit of Messina Strait yesterday evening, the Golden Princess has maintained northerly courses off the west coast of Italy. Just before arriving in Naples, the vessel will pass Sorrento to starboard and Capri Island to Port. The vessel will then approach the breakwater and make her entrance into the harbour. Once in the harbour, the vessel will swing around and come astern, alongside her berth. Naples lies along the Tyrrhenian Sea Coast and is Italy's third largest city. it is an important centre of commerce and tourism. The Port of Naples handles such goods as bulk oil, food stuffs, cars, textiles, fruit, and vegetables. The port also has a naval dockyard and an important shipbuilding industry. Golden Princess will depart from Naples at 1800 this evening, exit the harbour and set courses toward Civitavecchia.

Where Art Steems Vibrant with Life and a Culture Lies Frozen in Time

The sunny Bay of Naples is one of Italy's most beautiful sights, and the gateway to the South. The isles of Capri and Ischia beckon offshore, as the plumed heights of Mount Vesuvius dominate the skyline.

Naples was founded by Greeks from nearby Cumae, who saw the obvious value of a protected anchorage with almost unlimited capacity. They called it "New City" or Neapolis.

The same New City was conquered by the Romans in the 4th-century B.C., but the Greek language and customs remained strong for the next 800 years.

The ancient Romans never considered Naples and the surrounding region to be very important, but they were still attracted by such obvious natural beauty. The fertile lands and the sunny, mild climate made it ideal for farming. Together with Sicily, the entire Campanian region was a principal breadbasket of the Roman Empire.

Many villas and estates were constructed here for wealthy landowners and prosperous merchants. The rich and famous of the Empire nearly always had houses here, in addition to those in Rome and elsewhere.

During the middle ages, Naples, Amalfi, Sorrento, and several other local towns grew wealthy trading with the eastern Mediterranean. In 892 A.D., Sorrento fought a naval battle against Amalfi over control of trade.

Amalfi later became an important maritime republic, like Venice and Genoa, and played an important role in transporting Crusaders to the Holy Land. Some of the largest and most powerful galleys of that day were built along these shores.

Naples and Sicily were united in a large southern kingdom, which was ruled by a confusing series of German, French and Spanish monarchs. Among the most interesting was Charles I of Anjou, brother of St. Louis of France, who was named king by the Pope in 1268.

His grandson, "Robert the Wise" attracted poets, painters and scholars to Naples, and established one of the most brilliant courts of the medieval period. A large population and flourishing trade helped to assure Neapolitan domination of the central Mediterranean.

In 1504, the great solder Gonzalo de Cordoba defeated the French and made Naples part of the growing Spanish Empire of Ferdinand and Isabella. For the next two centuries, southern Italy would be tied to the exciting history of Spain, although taxes were more oppressive than ever.

A Neapolitan school of painting developed, with strong influence from Spanish and other Italian artists, like Caravaggio. magnificent palaces were built during the baroque and rococo periods, especially along the Via Toledo.

It was not until the 19th-century that Naples lost its reputation as a sophisticated capital city. The last kings were ruthless tyrants, who used repression to maintain their misrule. Ferdinand II was nicknamed "Bomba" because of his cruel bombardment of Messina during the revolution of 1848. Garibaldi finally conquered the entire southern realm in 1860, and united to the new Kingdom of Italy.

Naples today is a lively and animated city, which preserves the reminders of its past in a fan-shaped halo over the beautiful bay. Lavish mansions and churches nestle among poor districts. The Royal Palace of Capodimonte offers a stunning panorama of the entire city. The National Museum displays unique treasures taken from Pompeii and other ancient sites.

Just offshore is Capri, one of the world's most beloved islands. The name means "Goat Island," and Capri is well suited for these sure-footed animals.

Unlike nearby Ischia, which is volcanic, Capri is a mass of limestone which was once a part of the mainland. The Greeks settled there in ancient times, then the Romans.

The Emperor Augustus was so enchanted with Capri that he built a villa for himself, complete with roads and aqueducts. His successor Tiberius added several other villas, then moved here permanently for the last 10 years of his life. He saw nowhere else in the world which could compete with such beauty!

Beyond any doubt, a visit to Pompeii will teach you more about the ancient Romans than most other activities. Pompeii and the neighboring town of Herculaneum were destroyed and buried by a volcanic eruption in 79 A.D. This catastrophe killed 2,000 people, but it also preserved a unique look at their way of life. Vesuvius managed to freeze an entire society at one instant of time, so that we are able to study the lives and customs of 2,000 years ago.

As the playground of the first century's superstars, Pompeii offers an intimate look at the lives of people so affluent and powerful that the world was at their feet! Even today, we gasp at their lavish and indulgent lives.

A characteristic Pompeiian house would be rather dull from the outside, with nothing but bare walls visible, and very few windows.

Once through the main entrance, however, you would see a rectangular entry court called an atrium, open to the sky, and lavishly decorated with mosaics, marbles, statues and paintings. There was frequently a basin in the center to catch rain water. Around the court, there were usually small sleeping cubicles for members of the family. They were quite simple, since most daytime activities took place in other rooms.

A large study or reception room for the head of the household was the central hub, where books and money were kept. Dining rooms and larger salons for family activities completed the rectangle.

More elaborate houses could have several other hollow courtyards added, with fish ponds or warm baths common for wealthy families.

A colonnade or elaborate portico was almost taken for granted as a necessary decoration. Even ordinary meals were elaborate affairs with several courses. Guests reclined on large couches covered with pillows, while a great variety of food was served.

Plates and cups could be made of earthenware, metal or glass, and were richly decorated. The dining room was the most highly decorated room of the house.

Shops and stores along the Via dell'Abbondanza present a fascinating glimpse of Pompeii's commercial life. Most shops are open to the street, sometimes with serving windows for convenience.

Some shops are equipped with counters holding bins or storage jars built right into them. Business owners often lived in rooms behind the store, or on an upper floor.

Many roads in Pompeii are lined with sidewalks a foot ore more above the street level. Stepping stones were place to allow pedestrians to cross in wet weather, but spaces were still left to allow wheels and horses to get by easily.

After the discovery and excavation of Pompeii (which began in 1748) the findings took Europe by storm. The so-called Pompeiian style of frescoes on a red or black background became an overnight sensation. Royal palaces and country mansions adopted ancient styles of decoration and furnishings, with the subsequent enrichment of the entire civilization. There is so much to learn in Pompeii, and the city itself is a great teacher.

A side note: As part of our tour, we had a near-celebrity experience...check it out! It's Sophia Loren's home!













And now, our final tidbits session for the cruise:

• Food specialties - The Campania region's cuisine is mostly simple fare, using fresh local ingredients, and popular dishes are Spaghetti alle vongole (made with a clam sauce, either white or red), Pizza alla marinara, Insalata Caprese (slices of fresh mozzarella and ripe red tomatoes, garlic and oregano), and Melanzane alla parmigiana (fresh eggplant fried and layered with tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese).
• Drink specialties - The region produces a number of excellent wines, among them: Gragnano, Falerno, Lacrima Cristi, and Greco di Tufo (all whites), and Aglianico, Taurasi, and Falerno (all reds).
• Some useful words: Si (Yes), No (No), Si grazie (Yes, please), Grazie (Thank you), Scusi (Excuse me, sorry), Buon giorno (Good morning), and Arrivederci (Goodbye)

And, as we say farewell to our cruise, we also say goodbye to our Martini of the Day: Metropolitan (Absolut Kurant, Triple Sec, Cranberry juice and Lime juice).

Day 11 - At Sea back to Italy

At Sea * Sunday, June 25, 2006

From the Navigator:
Throughout today we will set a westerly course across the southern Ionian Sea towards landfall off the southern coast of Italy this evening. We will then alter our course to the north as we approach the Messina Straits which runs between Italy and Sicily. For this narrow stretch of water we will have to embark a pilot who will stay on board for 30 minutes until the transit is over. Once clear we will set a north westerly course passing 8.5 miles east of Stromboli before continuing onto Naples.

Since today was spent at sea, the staff aboard the ship made sure there was plenty to do, including a Catholic mass, ping pong challenge, Outburst, a golf clinic, line dancing class, hole-in-one putting, culinary demonstration, high numbers bingo, morning team trivia, daytime melodies, ice carving demonstration, Princess pop star finalists rehearsal, arts & crafts, an art auction, bridge, a movie (Pride and Prejudice), adult mixed doubles shuffleboard, a magical encounter with Gaetano, a navigational chart and art auction, paddle tennis, and much more.

They even had a Martini demonstration. Speaking of which, it's that time again! Martini of the Day was London Lemonade (Beefeater Gin, Contreau and Sweet & Sour)

Day 10 - Welcome to Santorini!

Santorini, Greece * Saturday, June 24, 2006

From the Navigator:
In the early hours of the morning, Golden Princess will be passing south of Anafi Island heading west. At about 18 miles southeast of Santorini (Thira), we will alter our course to the northwest steaming along the west coastline of Santorini. Just after sunrise we will enter the bay of Thira via the north entrance making our way towards the anchorage. The island of Santorini if formed from an extinct volcano which exploded leaving the remains we see today. The anchorage is on a pinnacle on the crater floor, with the bottom shelving steeply to depths of over 300 meters. Once the vessel has been anchored, tender operations will commence shortly afterwards to the village of Thira. In the afternoon, we will weigh anchor and set courses out of the bay towards Naples. We will transit the southern Aegean during the evening making westerly courses towards the Ionian Sea.

A Brief Overview of Santorini

Did the catastrophic volcanic eruption that ravaged Santorini circa 1600 B.C. destroy Crete's ancient Minoan civilization and give birth to the myth of Atlantis? in 1967, archaeologists on Santorini unearthed the remains of a Bronze Age city that may have been home to as many as 30,000 people. Whether the Lost Continent of Atlantis is rooted in myth or reality, an undisputed fact remains. The eruption created a caldera and one of the most dramatic land and seascapes in the entire Mediterranean.

On Santorini, white washed buildings cling to vertiginous cliffs that plunge to a turquoise sea. Part of the Cyclades Archipelago, the three island group of Santorini, Thirasia and uninhabited Aspronisi present the traveler with unforgettable vistas.

And now, your Martini of the Day: Lemon Tini (Absolut Citron with Sweet & Sour)

Day 9 - Welcome to Rhodes!

Rhodes, Greece * Friday, June 23, 2006

From the Navigator:
After departing Kusadasi, the Golden Princess set a westerly course into Kusadasi Gulf until she was abeam on the westerly tip of "Nisos Ikaria". Golden Princess turned then into the Ikarian Sea setting a south easterly course. During the overnight passage we transit 3.5 miles east of Levitha Island, once off the west end of Kandhelioussa Island, we set out course towards the west end of the Rhodes Channel. In the early hours of the morning, Golden princess sailed off the north coast of Rhodes. About 7:00am we embarked the pilot and we proceeded alongside at Angeloi pier. In the afternoon, once we depart, the vessel will exit the breakwaters and retrace our course into the Rhodes Channel once again. During the evening we will set various courses through the Eastern and Central Aegean Islands towards Santorini.

An Overview of Rhodes

Blessed with delightful climate and fertile soil, which produces a variety of the finest fruits, vegetables and red wine, Rhodes is the most important island in the group known as the Dodecanese or South Sporades. It is also the most easterly island of the Aegena Sea.

In Greek mythology, Rhodes was created by the sun god and a sea nymph: symbolic testimony indeed to the favor of both sun and sea in this beautiful place. According to Homer, the first colonists were Dorian Greeks, who founded three settlements: Lindos, Karmiros and Ialyssos. All three towns grew and prospered, extending their trade contacts as far as Italy and Spain.

Once they became involved in the Persian and Peloponesian wars, the settlers saw the need for a fortress. They founded the city of Rhodes at the northern tip of the island, and worked together to build a powerful citadel with a protected harbor.

The strength of the fortifications and the Rodian navy made the island even more important as a commercial and military power. It was put under siege many times, but usually resisted successfully.

In its days of greatest power, Rhodes became famous for impressive sculpture, like the huge bronze Colossus, which stood at the entrance to the harbor. Created to honor the sun god Helios, it was at least 110 feet high and considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

Contrary to popular belief, it did not straddle the harbor mouth, which is 1,300 feet across. It may have stood, however, on a protective barrier at the entrance, or off to one side of it.

Unfortunately, the Colossus only stood for 56 years before an earthquake toppled it in 224 B.C. But the enormous fragments remained half-submerged-and still awe-inspiring-for another nine centuries. When a scrap dealer finally carried the pieces away, he needed 900 camels!

The people of Rhodes cooperated with Alexander the Great, and later with the Roman empire, but the period of their greatest commercial success was already past. Rhodes passed successively from Byzantine control to the Saracens to Italian merchants, never regaining its former glory.

But the most glorious episode in Rodian history began in 1309, when the Knights of St. John took control. The Knights were founded during the Crusades as a nursing brotherhood, helping to care for the sick and infirm among the pilgrims to the Holy Land. Their full and proper name was the Knights of the Order of the Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem.

Yet continued fighting in the countryside convinced them that they had to protect travelers as well as heal them. So the Knights evolved into a genuine military order, like the Templars, although they never lost their interest in medicine and healing.

With the fall of Acre in 1291, the Knights and their fellow crusaders were finally expelled from the Holy Land. Although the Knights were temporary "orphans," they were highly motivated fighting men from the leading families of Europe. The Pope suggested that they use Rhodes as a base from which to harass Turkish communications, and pave the way for the next campaign.

No further Crusade took place, but the Knights rebuilt the town and the fortifications of Rhodes with furious zeal. Most of the imposing military architecture you see today dates from the 14th century. The Knights' rule on the island was mild and just, and both the native Greeks and the Italian merchants prospered with an increase of commerce. The Knights built galleys, learned naval tactics, and quickly became a serious danger to Moslem shipping in the Aegean for the next two centuries.

After Constantinople was captures in 1453, the Turks felt strong enough to seize Rhodes. Sultan Mehmet II attempted an assault in 1480, but was repulsed with severe losses. A later siege by Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent focused the full and awesome power of the Ottoman Empire on this single effort. Suleyman landed in June of 1522, with 100,000 well-trained troops, an excellent engineer corps and powerful siege artillery.

Constant reinforcements were needed to replace casualties, bringing the total number of Turkish soldiers to 200,000; as many as 90,000 of them would die. To oppose them, there were only 700 Knights, with 6,000 local helpers, and no hope of reinforcement. But they knew every inch of their island, and they defended what was by then the most fortified place on earth.

The siege was conducted with great skill and energy on both sides. Repeated Turkish assaults were repulsed with shocking slaughter. By Christmas, only 180 Knights and 1,500 auxiliaries were still left alive, and most of these were wounded.

Suleyman proposed a truce, since he dreaded the thought of more street fighting. The Knights were allowed to evacuate the island peacefully, with the respect of their besiegers. The fighting was finally over, and Rhodes became Turkish property.

The Knights of St. John fell back to Malta, where they rebuilt their forces. They continued to sail expeditions against the Turkish navy. When Suleyman attempted to capture Malta 40 years later, he suffered a major defeat, and the "Knights of Malta" continued to hold their new island until Napoleon's time.

Turkish rule on Rhodes was comparatively lenient, allowing much freedom to the local Greeks and Italians. There was a general decline in commercial development, and not much building took place over the next four centuries.

The Italian navy seized Rhodes and the Dodecanese in 1912, following the Italo-Turkish War. Mussonlini's architects restored many of the medieval buildings and fortresses in the 1930s. There was some air and naval action near Rhodes during World War II, but little damage was done. The islands were turned over to Greece in 1948.

As it appears today, Rhodes Town retains few relics of its glorious ancient past. Most of the Old Town is medieval, in the image of the Knights of St. John. Only on Monte Smith, west of town, do you find remnants of the ancient Acropolis. The ruins of a stadium and an Odeon--a small theater--date from the 2nd century B.C. you will also find three columns from the old Temple of Apollo.

The mountain is named for British Admiral Sidney Smith, who lived here during the Napoleonic Wars. The entrance to the old harbor of Mandraki is marked today by a buck and a doe in bronze, with no Colossus in sight.

But don't neglect the real treat for a visitor to Rhodes: a walk through the Old Town will transport you back five centuries. Just inside the Amboise Gate is the Palace of the Grand Masters, rich with memory of the Knights. Nearby is St. John's Lodge, and the area once occupied by St. John's Chapel, their principal place of worship.

From there, the arrow-straight Street of the Knights leads to St. Mary's church, at the waterfront. Along that thoroughfare are the arsenal and the impressive hospital, in line with the initial mission of the order.

Also near the Street of the Knights you will find a chain of inns, or residences, where the Knights lived in communities based on language. The inns are some of the richest and most impressive buildings in the Old Town. There were eight of these languages: France, Auvergne, Provence, Aragon, Castille, Italy, England, and Germany.

Once you have admired these inns, you will want to walk around the old ramparts. Each wall section-called a boulevard-was garrisoned by a different language. The names of each one line up neatly on the street signs if you know what to look for. Rhodes and Malta are the only places in the world where cities are built in this manner.

If you can tear yourself away from the Old City, there are more surprises in the ancient towns of Rhodes. Beautiful Lindos may already seem familiar if you saw the movie, "The Guns of Navarone." And as early as the 7th century B.C., colonists from here founded Naples, in southern Italy, and Gela in Sicily.

Although the impressive fortress is the work of the Knights, the ancient Acropolis centers on the temple of Athena Lindia, built in the Doric style. The awesome site of Lindos explains why life on Rhodes began here.

Mount Philerimos hosts Ialyssos, the third of the ancient trio of towns. Everyone was here: Phonecians, Dorians, Byzantines, Genoese, Knights of St. John. During the Great Siege, even Suleyman place his headquarters here.

Martini anyone? How about a Tango Tini? (Stolichnaya Vodka, Blue Curacao, Melon Liqueur with pineapple juice)

Day 8 - Welcome to Kusadasi!

Kusadasi, Turkey * Thursday, June 22, 2006

From the Navigator:
After departing Mykonos harbour yesterday, the Golden Princess made northerly courses into the Aegean. Before midnight the vessel altered her course to starboard onto an easterly heading towards the Gulf of Kusadasi. Shortly after sunrise the Golden Princess altered her course to the southeast to enter Kusadasi harbour. Kusadai, which means "bird island" is located in the Aegean region of Turkey and is known for its turquoise waters, broad sandy beaches and bright sun. The Golden Princess will depart today at 5pm and make courses towards Rhodes at an average speed of 17.6 knots.

Kusadai: A Historic Crossroads of Empires and Shadows of Stature

Just a few years ago, Kusadasi looked like any other sleepy fishing village. There were only a few buildings of note. Castillo de Santa Catalina, a Genoese castle dating from the 13th century, was later used as a base by the pirate Barbarossa and his brothers.

There is also a large Caravansary built in 1613 by the Turkish governor Mehmet Pasha. Originally designed as a haven for passing merchants and their camels, it has now been renovated as a luxury hotel.

The local bazaar has also grown to be one of Turkey's largest markets for leather goods, jewelry, and oriental rugs. Only the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul is bigger.

The entire town has been transformed into a center for tourists, with access to Ephesus and the entire Ionian coast. Ionian Greeks settled this part of Asia Minor as early as the 10th-century B.C. They founded cities around the finest natural harbors in the Mediterranean, and rapidly became an important commercial zone.

These Ionian Greeks made important contributions to the commerce and culture of the Aegean region. In fact, many of the earliest Greek philosophers and thinkers lived here along the Ionian coast, and not in mainland Greece.

The conflict that led to the Greek-Persian Wars also began here. The Greeks resisted the encroachments of the Persian Emperor Darius, and later his son, Xerxes. When Athens and mainland Greece supported their cousins against Persia, the conflict became general, and ended only when the Persians failed to subdue the Greek cities.

Smyrna may be the birthplace of the poet Homer. Since Homer's Iliad is about the siege of Troy, it is significant that Smyrna is little more than 100 miles from ancient Troy. He was certainly familiar with the local tales and legends of the epic siege, on which he based his work.

East of Smyrna was Sardis, capital of the kingdom of Lydia. The first metal coins were probably minted here. Lydia conquered Ephesus and established itself as a regional power.

Pergamum was once known for a huge altar honoring Zeus. The altar was discovered by German archaeologists a century ago, and is displayed in a Berlin museum today. Pergamum also had one of the greatest libraries of antiquity, with more than 200,000 volumes. The only greater library was at Alexandria in Egypt.

One of the ancient world's medical centers was the Asclepeium there, known for healthy spring water, massage, mud baths, and herbal cures. The great 2nd-century physician Galen was a native of Pergamum.

Ephesus temporarily replaced Smyrna as the commercial capital of Asia Minor until its river port silted up in the 3rd-century. Another claim to fame was the cult of Artemis at Ephesus. A huge temple was built to house the statue the multi-breasted goddess, a popular and powerful symbol of fertility. St. Paul preached against the shrine with mixed results. He later wrote his Letter to the Ephesians, which remains one of his finest works.

St. John likely wrote his Gospel here, and addresses part of the Book of Revelation, indicating that he knew the region well. Among his "Seven Cities of Asia" are Ephesus, Smyrna, Pergamum, and Sardis. Ephesus was also home to Polycarp, an early bishop and martyr.

Tradition also says that both Mary, the mother of Jesus, and John the Evangelist lived at Ephesus during their final years. Mary and John are revered by both Christians and Moslems.

A visit to Ephesus will put you in touch with some of this area's most stunning ancient ruins. There is an Odeon, or small theater, with a capacity of 1,400. It was also used for public meetings of the city council. The Magnesian Gate and Town Hall are near at hand.

The impressive Library of Celsus stands at the foot of the main street. Its stately two-level facade is being carefully restored. The interior walls were designed to display 12,000 scrolls in niches, which protected them from the humidity.

The Temples of Domitian and Hadrian are impressive, and the Great Theater (which is still in use) seats 25,000 spectators.

Harbor Street - also known as the Arcadian Way - connected the port district with the center of town. Beautiful colonnades on both sides and marble pavement made a dazzling first impression on visiting dignitaries. It was one of the rare ancient streets to be lit by lamps at night.

Some distance away, you can see the ruins of the massive Temple of Artemis, which was several times larger than the Parthenon. There had been temples here as early as the 7th century B.C.; this one was completed about 430.

Even in its abandoned state, Ephesus remains an awe-inspiring city, in an amazing setting. The Ionians lived well and wisely. Even those who live in great luxury today must tip their hats to these imaginative people.

An now, local tid-bits:

• Food specialties - The food in Turkey can be a real pleasure, especially if you like seafood. Recommended foods include Athopot Salatasi (cold octopus salad, often with shrimp, tossed in olive oil, vinegar and parsely), Dolma (general name for a variety of stuffed dishes, such as mussels stuffed with rice, pine nuts and currants), grilled fish such as palamut (baby tuna), lufer (bluefish), and levrek (sea bass).
• Drink specialties - The national drink is raki, similar to the Greek ouzo, made from grapes and aniseed. There are also a number of good local wines, including Villa Doluca and Kavaklidere (each in white and red varieties).
• Some useful words - Evet (Yes), Hayir (No), Lutfen (Please), Tesekkur ederim (Thank you)

Martini of the Day on board the ship, anyone? Today it's Milky Way Martini (Grey goose Vodka, Kahlua and Bailey's Irish Cream)

Day 7 - Welcome to Mykonos!

Mykonos, Greece * Wednesday, June 21, 2006

From the Navigator:
During the night, Golden Princess will sail southeast of Peloponnisos, passing the Kithnos Strait and north of the island of Siros. In the early hours of the morning we will approach the west end of Mykonos island. We will embark our pilot before sunrise and Golden Princess will be alongside her berth which lies to the north side of the bay. On the port side you will see Mykonos Town, which lies at the eastern side of the bay. We will depart in the afternoon, when we will thrust off the berth and retrace our course out of the bay, setting various courses around the island of Mykonos. During the night, we will sail towards the Gulf of Kusadasi.

The Birthplace of Apollo, Mykonos Shines Like a Diamond in a Sapphire Sea

Although the rocky soil at Mykonos looks austere, its cube-shaped white houses have a characteristic charm, contrasting as they do with the dazzling blue of the sky and the sea. Mykonos belongs to the island group known as the Cyclades, since they form a rough circle around the sacred island of Delos, one of the religious centers of ancient Greece.

The islands are the highest points of a sunken plateau, which still exhibits some volcanic activity. Seen from a distance, the Cyclades resemble a necklace of gems on deep blue satin.

The Cyclades are ideally placed astride the trade routes from Europe, to Asia Minor, to Egypt, and back again. It is surprising to remember that these islands produced a brilliant culture very early in recorded history, even before the great Minoan civilization on Crete.

Following the Fourth Crusade, the islands fell under the control of the Venetian Republic, and served as outposts of Venice, until the Turkish navy captured them, beginning in the 16th-century. Signs of the Venetian presence are still visible, including a surprising number of Catholic chapels alongside the more traditional Greek Orthodox churches. The Turks allowed much autonomy to the islands, and Italian remained the official language until 1830.

There was always a danger of invasion by pirates, so the town and harbor are compactly built for defense. You may hear that the tight, winding maze of streets was designed to confuse invaders, but it also does well to break the effects of the strong winds coming in from the Aegean. Often you can turn a corner and enter a tiny square, shaded by a single almond or pepper tree.

The delightful harbor sets off the arcades of the 18th-century town hall and the tiny chapel dedicated to St. Nicholas. A good place to start a walking tour is the square dedicated to local patriot Mando Mavrogenous. Mando was a wealthy young woman during the Greek War of Independence, who fit out two ships at her own expense. They inflicted a stunning defeat on a large band of Algerian corsairs.

In 1823, Mando composed her eloquent "Letter to the Women of Paris" in which she appealed for sympathy and assistance against the Turkish occupation.

The most beautiful icons on the island are in the Church of Agia Kiriaki. You may find the charming Square of the Three Wells - local legend has it that unmarried girls should drink from each of the three, in order to find the right husband.

The attractive Panagia Paraportiani church unites four chapels into a unique Byzantine pattern, with a single door and a graceful arched bell tower. Don't miss a closer look at the windmills which command the ridge above the harbor.

The tiny island of Delos is only a short ferry ride from Mykonos, but reveals a stunning tradition as a religious center for the Ionian Greeks. According to Greek mythology, the beautiful Leto gave birth to twins at the base of a palm tree here. Her children were Apollo, god of the sun, and Artemis, goddess of the moon. A series of resplendent temples and monuments were built here over the span of a millennium.

The logical place to begin is the Sacred Port along the western shore, which was the ancient point of entry. A dignified processional route, the Sacred Way, leads from the port through the temple district, including votive monuments and porticoes.

There are several successive temples of Appollo, built by rival religious brotherhoods. The smallest and oldest of these temples housed the fabulous treasury of the Delian League. You will also see the remnants of a colossal statue of Apollo, originally carved from a single block of marble. Nearby is the Temple of Artemis, Apollo's sister.

North of the temples is the Lion District. The Delians decided to imitate the beautiful Sacred Lake at Thebes in Egypt, and dammed up the island's only stream. Originally the lake was home to swans sacred to Apollo, but was filled in during 1924 because it had become a source of malaria.

The Terrace of the Lions was placed alongside the lake, so that the nine marble lions could be reflected in the clear waters. Only five lions remain today. The Venetians removed one of the others, which you will find today guarding the entrance to the Arsenal in Venice, but with a different head!

South of the central temples is the Theatre District, with ruins of a majestic theatre, and a series of beautiful private homes. The House of the Dolphins and the House of the Masks have superb mosaic pavements.

Upon the slopes of Mount Kynthos is a Terrace of Foreign Gods, with shrines to Egyptian and Syrian deities. Legend says that Zeus presided over the birth of his children from the top of Kynthos. He would have been pleased!

And now, your dose of other tidbits:

• Food specialties - Eating is a lively social activity in the Cyclades. Recommended foods include Tarmosalata (smoked fish roe), Keftedes (spicy meatballs), Dolmades (vine or cabbage leaves wrapped around savory rice and sometimes mincemeat, served with egg and lemon sauce), and the island's traditional almond biscuits.
• Drink specialties - The wine from nearby Santorini is a Greek favorite, particularly Boutari in both kokkino (red) and apro (white). There is also Ouzo, Brandy, and Mavrodaphne.

As for martini of the day, it's Golden Finger martini (Grey goose Orange Vodka, Triple Sec and orange juice)

Day 6 - Welcome to Athens!

Athens, Greece * Tuesday, June 20, 2006

From the Navigator:
In the early hours of the morning we will make our approaches to Athens from the south, using the traffic separation scheme which controls the inbound and outbound traffic into the bay. We will embark our pilot off the part and enter the harbor. Piraeus is the busiest port in Greece and everyday ferries depart for the Greek islands as well as Italy, Cyprus and Turkey. We are scheduled to depart at 5:45pm, when we will thrust off the berth and back out into the harbor before turning to starboard and setting a course between the breakwaters. Once the pilot has disembarked we will set a southerly course through the traffic separation scheme, passing numerous vessels as we build up to 12 knots for our slow speed run to Mykonos.

Athens: Where an Olympic Spirit Soars in the Winds of Democracy

Although it is a bustling modern capital city, Athens still holds the ancient Acropolis and all of its history high enough for everyone to remember.

The core of the city is built on a lofty hill with steep sides, providing an excellent defensive site. It is protected by a ring of lower hills, and by two rivers that flow into the sea nearby. Despite its many protections, Athens was far from isolated.

Very early in history, Athens gained attention among neighboring city-states for its strong maritime commerce and the wealth which that overseas trade generated. This commercial success, in turn, convinced the Athenians that an open-minded, tolerant approach toward all people was good for business, and frequently eliminated the petty causes of antagonism and warfare that might disrupt trade.

The basis for small-scale democracy was founded upon practical needs. Since there never seemed to be enough skilled workers to keep up with the demand for goods, the merchant classes saw that it was in their interests to form a working partnership with artisans, farmers, sailors and day-laborers. Those workers were granted political and civil rights, ensuring their loyalty to a city that protected them.

Slavery was uncommon during the first centuries of Athenian life, escaped slaves frequently found their way to Athens. There was work available, and the steady influx of outsiders hoping to begin a new life was taken for granted.

Life many other Greek sates, Athens exported its surplus population to colonize other parts of the region, spreading its own institutions and customs even further. Athenian settlements extend throughout the Aegean, Sicily, Southern Italy, Asia Minor and even the Black Sea.

Through Greek eyes, the unique traits of Athens disclosed a special relationship with both Poseidon, god of the sea, and Athena, goddess of wisdom. Athena's characteristic owl was a frequent symbol on Athenian coins and her olive tree, signifying peace and harmony, commonly appears on decorative works.

Though technically dedicated to the goddess, Athens did not want to neglect the powerful god of the sea, which dominated their commerce. The beautiful Erectheion on the Acropolis hedges the bet quite nicely: shrines to Poseidon and Athena share the same temple building. There is also a stunning Temple of Poseidon atop the headland of Cap Sounion, overlooking the Aegean Sea.

The Golden Age of Athens began with the social reforms of the philosopher Solon and the strong direction of leaders like Peisistratos in the 6th-century B.C. Imposing public buildings and temples on the Acropolis replace earlier ones, and the Agora or marketplace district expanded several times over.

During the Persian Wars (circa 400 B.C.), the city was captures and destroyed; but Athens and her allies ultimately expelled their Persian foes from Europe. The glorious battles of this period include the lopsided victory at Marathon, followed by the famous 26-mile run to communicate the news of victory.

Following the defeat of the Persians, the great statesman Themistocles built new fortifications to protect the city. There was also much to be rebuilt inside the city; the form of the Acropolis that we see today took shape at this time.

The shops and squares of the Agora and most of the lower town were also rebuilt and expanded during the same building program. Pericles also built the legendary Long Walls, a sort of fortified corridor connecting Athens with Piraeus.

Not far from the Acropolis is the Pnyx, a small crowded amphitheater where the Assembly met and debated political issues. Since each citizen had the right to speak and vote, the Pnyx is the true home of Athenian democracy. The much larger Theater of Dionysus is one of the oldest and most impressive Greek dramatic structures.

After the city went into decline, it was ruled in turn by Sparta, Thebes, Macedonia, and Rome. The Roman Emperor Hadrian added a new walled quarter to the city, complete with library, gymnasium, new aqueducts, and the striking Hadrian's Arch. He also completed the Olympian Temple of Zeus, started centuries before by Peisistratos.

Athens remained part of the Roman-Byzantine empire even after the fall of Rome in the West. Along with the rest of Greece, it was conquered by the Turkish army in the 1450s and remained part of the Ottoman Empire until the 19th century.

Monuments in the modern city honor the memory of two non-Greeks: Lord Byron and Heinrich Schliemann. Byron supported the Greeks' struggle for independence with his military skill, but even more with his writing. Althoug he died long before final victory, he is much loved even today.

Schliemann was a German businessman with a passion for ancient history. He shocked the archaeological world by discovering legendary sites, like Troy, which some scholars had dismissed as mythical. His efforts sparked a new wave of study, which brought to light previously unknown cultures like the Mycenean and Minoan civilizations. His house in Athens is a museum today.

More modern additions to the city include the impressive Olympic Statium, built in 1895. Syntagma or Constitution Square is an elegant space in front of the Parliament. Formerly built for the kings of Greece, also hosts the monument to the Unknown Soldier. One of the streets from there leads to the gracious buildings of the University, the Academy, the National Library, and ultimately to Schliemann's former house.

So, we're still in Greece, and the food and drink specialties haven't changed...but Martini of the Day has! Mambo Martini! (Smirnoff Vodka, Cruzan Rum and Banana Liqueur)

Day 5 - Welcome to Katakolon!

Katakolon, Greece * Monday, June 19, 2006

From the Navigator:
After leaving Corfu, Golden Princess steamed southeast along the coast of Kerkyra Island (Corfu); overnight set a southerly course in the Ionian Sea, passing west of the Islands of Kefallinia and Zakinthos, In the early hours of the morning, we will make our approach to Katakolon from the south; around sunrise time, Golden Princess will be coming alongside her berth. Around 7:00am we will be secured alongside. After departure, a southeasterly course along the Peloponnisos will be set, around 11:00pm Golden Princesses will transit Elafonisou Strait, then she will head northeast towards Athens.

An Overview of Katakolon

The pretty fishing village of Katakolon is near one of the most important religious centers of ancient Greece.

At a time when the Greek people badly needed a focus of unity, Olympia provided a neutral and attractive center where they could meet, compete, worship, and honor one another for a wide range of accomplishments.

About 1200 BC, following the fall of the Minoan civilization of Crete and the related Mycenean culture, all of Greece slipped back into a dark age. Warfare between tribes and city-states was interminable, even though most people of the region spoke dialects of the same language, and worshipped the same gods. Greece is a relatively small area, but it contained more than 150 small states or political entities. Each was intensely jealous of its own independence and liberties, and each seemed firmly committed to circumventing any possible compromise with its neighbors. Obviously, there was no hope of any growth or peaceful development, unless some basis could be found for collaboration.

What evolved, once good leadership asserted itself, was a series of religious festivals to draw the warring communities together. The two most important of these took place regularly at Delphi and Olympia. The Delphic games were held every two years in honor of Apollo, Olympian god and safeguard of universal harmony. Delphi is a stunning town in central Greece, north of the Gulf of Corinth. It rapidly became one of the most important shrines of the ancient world, due also to the famous Delphi Oracle.

The games at Olympia were held every four years in honor of Zeus, father of the dogs. Since Olympia is located on the isle of the Peloponnesus, athletes and spectators came in droves from southern Greece, and in lesser numbers from everywhere else. The traditional date for the first Olympiad was 776 BC, beginning a tradition that lasted for more than 1,100 years. Special messengers announced the festivities, which were held during July or August at the full moon. A "sacred truce," lasting for an entire month, allowed people to travel safely between their homes and the shrine without any interference. Causing harm to anyone during the truce was considered a horrible sacrilege, and could be severely punished. Cult ceremonies in honor of Zeus were also accompanied by a great fair, attracting what may have been hundreds of thousands of visitors.

Although the athletic contests were limited to only five days, the competitors had to spend a long preparatory phase at Olympia, training under the watchful eyes of the judges. Most of the events--running, jumping, boxing, wrestling, discus and javelin throwing--were thinly disguised skills useful in warfare, but no one was allowed to fight seriously until they had first returned home. Horse racing and chariot racing took place on a special race course.

The winner of each event was crowned with a wreath of olive leaves cut from a sacred tree with a golden sickle. He attended a great banquet, and was celebrated by poets and singers. Some of the more successful city-states built "treasuries" at Olympia to house permanent monuments and votive offerings to honor their many champions. When the Olympic tradition was already centuries old, the Roman Emperor Nero insisted that music and poetry competitions be added, so that he could participate. Conveniently, he won seven prizes.

Because of the immense popularity of the Olympic games, the Temple of Zeus, and the great statue which was housed in it, was considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. But the religious aspect of the games declined during the Roman period, and they were stopped altogether by the Emperor Theodosius after 393. The site was abandoned and the buildings fell into ruin. A huge earthquake in the 6th-century completed the damage. Olympia was only rediscovered in the 18th-century, and systematic research began in 1875. The modern Olympic movement began in 1896, when Baron Pierre de Coubertin arranged the first games in Athens. Every four years since then, the torch bearers return here to ignite the flame, which is then carried to the site of the games.

Central to the archaeological zone, as it was to the ancient festivals, is the great Temple of Zeus. Even though it is no more than a chaotic heap of ruins today, the dimensions of the temple are truly impressive. Only a bit smaller than the Parthenon in Athens, it was a classic temple in the Doric style, first built in the 5th-centry BC. Some of the temple's finest decorative sculptures are preserved in the Archaeological Museum. Of special note are the two rich pediments: the long triangular groupings which appeared just below the peaked roof, depicting scenes from mythology.

The original statue of the Olympian Zeus was 44 feet high--seven times life-seize--and lavishly decorated. The god sat on a throne of ivory and ebony, holding a Victory in his right had, a scepter with an eagle in his left. The olive wreath given to Olympic winners also crowned the brow of Zeus himself. In its day, the statue was so huge that wooden galleries were built to enable visitors to see it better. When the great sculptor Pheidias finished the statue, he asked if Zeus approved; according to the legend, a flash of lightning, followed by thunder, was the reply. The studio of Pheidias is not far from the temple; excavations begun in 1955 discovered the design and work room of the great artist.

The Heraion or Temple of Hera, wife of Zeus, is located in the central area as well. You will also find the monument known as the Philippeion, dedicated to Philip of Macedon by his son, Alexander the Great. The ruins of the great Stadium can be traced out of the old competition ground very clearly. Forth thousand people at once could applaud their favorite athletes. It is hard to stand in this place and not hear the echos of their cheers.

Since you're already familiar with the food and drink specialties of this area from our last post, we'll just get straight to the Martini of the Day on the ship: Flirtini (Smirnoff Vodka, house champagne with Cranberry juice)