Day 4 - Welcome to Corfu!

Corfu, Greece * Sunday, June 18, 2006 * Happy Father's Day

From the Navigator:
Since departure from Dubrovnik the Golden Princess maintained south-easterly course in the South Adriatic Sea, then she passed the Strait of Otranto, the closest Point between Italy and Albania, heading towards the Kerkyra Strait, which we entered in the early hours of this morning. This morning the Golden Princess made her final approach to the berth from the east, passing a quarter mile south of the island of Nisida, when off the breakwater pier then she swung bow to part and went securely alongside starboardside. Corfu lies to the west of mainland Greece and is one of the larger Greek Isles. The Golden Princess expects to depart Corfu at 6:00pm this evening. letter go her lines and head back into the Ionian Sea, making around 15 knots throughout the night towards Katakolon.

An Overview of Corfu

Although Corfu is certainly a Greek island, it lies between Italy and Albania in the Ionian Sea. Corfu is also unusually lush and fertile, well watered, and a tad cooler than most Greek Isles. The subtle gray-green of the olive tree is everywhere, making olive oil a principal export. The entire history of Corfu and the Ionian group of islands is very distinct from the rest of Greece. Among many of the foreign influences here are British, French and especially Venetian. We know that some of the earliest colonists on Corfu--called Kerkyra by the Greeks--came from wealthy Corinth. By position, it was an ideal highway between Greece and the West, and prosperity came along quickly.

Corfu soon became a challenger of its mother city; in fact the trade rivalry with Corinth was so intense that their two fleets fought the first recorded naval battle in Greek history around 664 BC. The same rivalry, two centuries later, helped to ignite the Peloponnesian War, when Crofu appealed to Athens for aid against Corinth. The island was a good friend to the Roman Empire, and Octavian made it a naval station for his operations against Marc Antony and Cleopatra.

Along with its unfailing affluence, Corfu has had a stormy history, marked by constant changes of ownership and a serious threat from pirates. In 1386, the islanders asked for the protection for the Venetian Republic, which lasted until the Republic itself was abolished in 1797. Venetian rule was not always harmonious, but the administration was stable and fairly honest. The olive trade flourished, since the oil-hungry Venetians paid a bonus for each new olive tree planted.

Intermittent attacks by the Turkish navy were repulsed, and Corfu served as a refuge for Greek artists and scholars fleeing from Turkish advances elsewhere. These educated exiles carried on a long tradition of learning, and founded the first Academy in modern Greece.

During the Napoleonic Wars, the Ionian Islands were briefly under French control, with a modernized bureaucracy and a degree of self-government. Several building projects substantially beautified the capital.

After the defeat of the French, the most interesting half-century of Corfu's history began. Great Britain established a protectorate over the islands, and Corfu became the governmental seat of the British High Commissioner. The native senate and assembly were retained, with a strict but creative administration. Much of what you see today on Corfu took shape during this period. Britain withdrew in 1864, and the Ionians joined the Kingdom of Greece.

The Old Town of Corfu is a charming place between the Old and New Fortresses or Citadels, with a delightful garden zone, the Spinada, for strolling and relaxation. The palms and eucalyptus trees were planted during the French period, and the neo-classical rotunda honors the memory of Sir Thomas Maitland, one of Britain's High Commissioners.

Among the commemorative monuments and statues here, is one to Corfu native John Kapodistrias, Greece's first president. He is buried in the Platitera Monastery nearby.

The pretty arcaded terrace along the western side of the Spianada resembles the Rue de Rivoli in Paris. Its designer was Mathieu de Lesseps, whose son built the Suez Canal. Along the northern side is the neo-classical Palace of St. Michael and St. George, once the residence of the British administrators. Today it houses a museum of Asian Art, which includes more than 10,000 beautiful items, especially from China and Japan.

Also here on the Spianada, you will find the famous cricket pitch of Corfu. The people adopted the British game with gusto a century ago, and continue to field their own teams.

The Old Citadel occupies a camel-shaped wedge of land that once contained the entire town. The fortifications have been repaired and rebuilt many times; today you see what the Venetians built in the 16-th century. A small canal defends the main bastions, and a small protected anchorage--the Mandraki--lies to the north. The winged lion of St. Mark is a frequent reminder of the Venetian presence.

A Walk through the Old Town is a real treat. Most of the protective walls have been demolished, but the narrow, winding streets remain. Tiny squares, high arcaded houses, and richly decorated churches are everywhere, each one unique.

The most important cathedral is the Church of St. Spyridon, the island's patron. The 16th-century church, with its tall bell tower, houses the silver coffin of the saint, an early martyr-bishop from Cyprus. Nearly half the boys born on Corfu are named Spyridon, after the patron. Because they did not show proper respect for the saint, French administrators lost popularity with the native population in 1799, despite their efficiency.

Not far from the old Ionian Parliament building is the Municipal Theater. During World War I, it was the home of the Serbian Government in exile, as well as the refuge of the battered Serbian army as it reorganized for the Salonika Front. And it was from here in 1917 that the "Pact of Corfu" proclaimed the formation of the Yugoslav state. The nearby Archaeological Museum has a fine collection of ancient treasures from the island. The most important item is the Gorgon pediment, taken from the Temple of Artemis, which dates from 6th-century BC.

And now for a bit of modern-day:

• Food specialties - meals in Greece are a time to indulge and enjoy. Some recommended foods are Tzatziki (appetizer made with yogurt, cucumbers and garlic), Pastitsio (baked dish of minced lamb and macaroni), Moussaka (minced meat and vegetables served with rich cheese), and Gemista (cooked tomatoes or peppers, usually stuffed with ground lamb).
• Drink specialties - Wine is a centerpiece of Greek life. Retsina, a strong, aromatic resonated wine, is the national taste. Kokkino (red) and aspro (white) wines are inexpensive and satisfying. Ouzo, a clear licorice-flavor liqueur, is the favorite aperitif. You'll also want to try Botrys and Metaxa (brandies) and Mavrodaphne (a heavy dessert wine).
• Some useful words: Malista or Ne (Yes), Ochi (No), Parakalo (Please), Efharisto (Thank you), and Kalimera (Good morning).

And let's not forget our new favorite tid-bit, the martini of the day on the ship: Kurrant Affair (Absolute Kurant Vodka with Chambord)